Crete 8 - Gramvoussa & Aptera

Today we had planned to go the the lagoon of Gramvoussa. We wanted to do that on our own because the guided tour would have cost 65 Euros per person and we didn't want to pay that much just for visiting a lagoon for bathing. Maybe we should have listened to the description of that trip more carefully, because going there on your own could be some different kind of 'fun' - afterwards you are always smarter.

So we drove down the national road to Kissamos once more and headed on for Balos. But at Kaliviani the paved road ended and all the way up to Balos was just a long gravel road.



With the rental car I was worried a little about the tires, having a flat one out in nowhere wouldn't be what I was hoping for. We asked greek on the same way if we were right. We were right. So we kept on driving on that (not what I would call comfortable) 'road' until we reached Balos - on top of the hills!
We expected a little mountain village from which we could drive down to the lagoon but there was just a taverna and the only way down was on a small gravel path by foot.



A two kilometer walk directly under the burning sun was not our idea of having a nice day at a beautifull lagoon. The man at the taverna told us that there is only the way by foot or by ship from a little harbor near Kissamos. (That's the way we would have gone there on the booked trip.)
So we just took some photos of that wonderfull view up there and went all they way back down.



Back at Kissamos we stopped at the beach and had our lunch. In the lunch box from our hotel we had rice, meat nuggets (similar to the chicken nuggets at McD's but different meat), tomatoes, bread and oranges. It was good and enough.
After the lunch break we went back on the national road and thought about what to visit next when we saw a sign to an excavation site.
The ruins of the former city state of Aptera as far as excaveted by now are well preserved. The city walls are still viewable and partly still up to three meters high. Aptera must have been huge. From up there you have a wonderful sight all over the Souda Bay.



We didn' get there early enough so the first part of the site was already closed and the other part - some kind of fortress at the end of the hill was closed for renovation.



But it looked very interesting anyway.

After that we just headed back for the hotel but took the old roads through some nice little villages.

The rental car was really worth it. After all it's cheaper than making a lot of booked trips and you can stay as long as you want at a place.

Crete 7 - Sunrise, Elafonissi, Agia Sofia's Cave, Chania

A sunrise is always wonderfull, especially when you can watch it on a beach. You will never regret having gotten up early to catch it on time!
When it starts you first can see the horizon becomming reddish and then the sun emerges out of the water - visually spoken - and grows from the little disk up to the big fireball that gives us all light, warmth and a lot of energy.
So we got up early - actually to early - and it was just perfect.



After sunrise we went to breakfast and started afterwards for todays tour.
We had planned to go to the beach of Elafonissi. We were told that it is one of the most wonderfull sand beaches on crete so we just had to check that.

On the way we stopped at Kissamos at the archeological museum. Very interesting and new. Must have opened just a few weeks ago. There was no entrance fee - we guess it will come when the museum is known better. It is built on an excavation site direct on old walls that were buried again to keep them save after examination.

Not far away from Kissamos we found a little chapel built into a cave. Really fascinating!



On the way over the mountains we once more had contact with a herd, this time not sheep but goats. Some of these animals are kind of stupid and selfish. They walk on the road directly towards the car and look at you just like asking 'What are you doing on MY road?'. Very funny!

After a long ride through the mountains we reached Elafonissi Beach.
There are no hotels and - as far as planned - never will be due to environmental protection.
Just sunbeds and umbrellas, one taverna at the beach, one near the parking place, a little shop and showers and toilettes. As we could see this way of regulation really works out. The flora is beautifull and there are a lot of different birds.



It was wonderfull allthough we caught a not so pleasing day, it was a bit stormy all the time with just a few pauses and sometimes it felt like you were sandblasted.
The beach is absolutely clean, the water is refreshing and clear. In the water there are some big rocks - just like little islands - and the water was shallow enough so you could just walk over to these rocks.



Like always I just had to go for a walk to see what's around. In the beginning the sand wasn't too warm so I left my sandals at the sunbeds. Big mistake! When I was at the other end I felt the sand heaten up more and more with every step. Although me feet were burning like hell when I reached the water again I really enjoyed the trip.

I also snorkeld a bit and took some underwater photos too.
The fish at this place are very curious and let you come really close.

*Pics will follow*


On the way back to Chania we stopped at another church and later at the archeological cave Agia Sofia's. It's a long way up, fortunately it's a stairway but it's still not too comfortable.
To be honest the cave is nothing special. It's very smelly and their is a lot of bird dung from the pigeons. There is a tiny chapel build in but there is nothing that makes the way up really worth it.



After the cave we went on to Chania.
In Chania we parked near the old harbor next to a monument built in memory of a ship accident in which many people died most of them from Crete.
The old harbor looks magnificent in the evening sunlight.



We went to one of the many tavernas for dinner. First we ordered Tzatziki as starter and then Julia had Pastitsio and I ordered Giouvetsi. Everything was excelent.

When we finnished dinner we continued along the harbor and Julia bought a new sd-card for her camera. Yep, she filled 1 gb within only seven days. Photography is a real passion of her. She also found a beautifull dress in another shop.

Finally we went to the same bar we visited on the booked trip around Chania and had watermelon juices and fruit salad with ice cream again.
Chania is very alive at night, the strets are crowded and the tavernas and bars are full with people.



Due to the plan to go to the lagoon of Gramvoussa tomorrow we decided to go back to the hotel to get some sleep. When we arrived at the car we were a bit shocked. Some Idiots had completely blocked us; no way to move out.
So, what do we do now?
Julia said we should call the police, but there was no public phone and we didn't have a telephonenumber and there were only tourists all around.
Suddenly - like a ray of light on a rainy day - a police car drove by and I stopped them. I explained them that we were blocked and they were very nice but they couldn't help us because they didn't have a crane that day.
Yes, he said: 'I am very sorry but we don't have a crane today.'
They don't have one 'today'?
I really had to keep myself back not to ask them: 'Does the crane have a day off??? Is it lying on the beach and relaxing???'
But it wasn't their fault so why argue with police in a foreign country.
All we could do was to wait and hope one of those a**holes who blocked us would come back soon.
Fortunately a father with his family came and drove away with a car that was parked next to one of the idiot's cars and there was than just enough space to get out.

If that parking problem wasn't enough we took the long way home.
Still filled with a little anger I left Chania in the wrong direction. When I noticed that mistake I thought it wouldn't be much of a problem - just stay on the old road until you can change to the new national road again.
Near to Kissamos I was fed up and took the next turn in direction to the island's inner side in faith of hitting the new road but we ended up in the mountains in totaly black night. It was nearly midnight and I was very tired and the stress level got higher by every minute.
After a long time out in nowhere we finally reached the new national road and got back to the hotel by about 01:30 am.

Even with that hell of a finish the day was wonderfull and we saw a lot!

Crete 6 - Rethimno & mountains

Today we got our rental car.
A black Seat Ibiza. Nice car, a bit weak motorized for steeper hills.
The most important part was the air condition and that worked very well.

To get accustomed to the cretan traffic we first took the old national road through Kavros.
Then we drove a bit up the mountains and finally decided to head for Rethimno. On the way we stopped at an nice public beach with a taverna surrounded by beautifull palm trees. Next stop was at a near located church.


Afterwards we drove directly to Rethimno. A very nice City with a lot of narrow alleys and a wonderfull old town. We visited the archeological museum and the fortress. In th museum you can see a lot of interesting exhibits - statues, jewelry, coins with detaild stampings and lots more.
The fortress is just breathtaking - like all fortresses I've visited so far, with a little difference: this one is very green, there are many trees inside.



From the wall you have a great sight over the town of Rethimno and a wonderfull view over the sea.



On the hill in the middle of the fortress there is a former cathedral wich was changed to a mosque due to the occupation by the Ottoman Empire for about 300 years. At the moment it is closed for renovation.



The fortress has also a small stage which is used for theatrical performences, concerts and other events. Must be a great experience to see a play in such a monumental place.

After the Fortress we left Rethimno and went back up to the beautifull mountains. After some villages we had to stop because of a sheep herd walking along the street.

Then we continued up the mountain. Short beneath the top we made a short photo stop. Up there it was damn cold, wind was blowing strong and the air felt freezy compared to the temperatures down in the valleys. When we got back into the car the air condition felt like blowing warm air. Now I really believe that there can be snow on the top of the Lefka Ori ('White Mountains') even in June.